The Ruins of Gyumri

Gyumri, City of Lost Dreams

Late July, 2013 Once named Kumayri, then Gyumri, Alexandropol, Leninakan and now Gyumri once again, this is a city that changes identity more than Hrach changes socks. Many locals still refer to the city by its former name, Leninakan – despite the most recent name change in 1990. That’s how Hrach refers to it while…

Cover Jan Vagabundo

Vagabundo Competition

To celebrate the brand new Vagabundo issue and my contribution to the magazine, I’m launching a competition. If you thought this blog was a tad quiet lately, one of the reasons is that I’m now writing and blogging for Vagabundo, a recently relaunched adventure travel magazine. Vagabundo is written for travellers, by travellers. It’s completely…

Rainbow brothers

Soggy Hippies in Armenia

Peace in the Middle-East Rainbow Gathering, Armenia, July, 2013 The 2013 Peace in the Middle-East Rainbow Gathering is being held in Armenia. The timing is perfect. I get a ride from Yerevan with some Rainbow folk. We drive out of the city and head north, past a crispy clear Lake Sevan, and into Dilijan, the…