Thessaloniki

The Bracelet Sellers

7th August, 2013 “Hey, what’s your problem? I only said you are beautiful – it’s a compliment!” Three guys are selling bracelets by the sea shore. They have a sophisticated sales technique: wolf-whistle at passing women, slip a bracelet quickly onto their wrist, then coo and ahh at them until they buy one.  He grabs…

Armenian Gravestone

Crazybus: Yerevan to Istanbul

Yerevan to Istanbul, 3-4th August, 2013 Where is she from?” the woman asks Hrach in Armenian. “She’s from England”, he tells her. Her eyes grow wide. “England, ooh!” I feel awkward. I look at my feet and let Hrach do the talking. We pay for my ticket, then sit around in the waiting room, feeling…

The Ruins of Gyumri

Gyumri, City of Lost Dreams

Late July, 2013 Once named Kumayri, then Gyumri, Alexandropol, Leninakan and now Gyumri once again, this is a city that changes identity more than Hrach changes socks. Many locals still refer to the city by its former name, Leninakan – despite the most recent name change in 1990. That’s how Hrach refers to it while…