Armenian Gravestone

Crazybus: Yerevan to Istanbul

Yerevan to Istanbul, 3-4th August, 2013 Where is she from?” the woman asks Hrach in Armenian. “She’s from England”, he tells her. Her eyes grow wide. “England, ooh!” I feel awkward. I look at my feet and let Hrach do the talking. We pay for my ticket, then sit around in the waiting room, feeling…

The Ruins of Gyumri

Gyumri, City of Lost Dreams

Late July, 2013 Once named Kumayri, then Gyumri, Alexandropol, Leninakan and now Gyumri once again, this is a city that changes identity more than Hrach changes socks. Many locals still refer to the city by its former name, Leninakan – despite the most recent name change in 1990. That’s how Hrach refers to it while…

Cover Jan Vagabundo

Vagabundo Competition

To celebrate the brand new Vagabundo issue and my contribution to the magazine, I’m launching a competition. If you thought this blog was a tad quiet lately, one of the reasons is that I’m now writing and blogging for Vagabundo, a recently relaunched adventure travel magazine. Vagabundo is written for travellers, by travellers. It’s completely…