Black Ice and Back-Loaders

We say goodbye to our forest friends, the frozen lake and – we hope – the bitter cold. Icicles hang from Ed’s beard and moustache as he hugs me goodbye. This is the coldest day yet, as we are soon to discover. The ice on the road is hard and black. We don’t realise how dangerous…

Malmö

Pete parks the van beside the main road that runs through Dragør, a little fishing village on the East coast of Denmark, just before the bridge over to Sweden. We are barely out of Copenhagen. I peer over the back of my seat to where Jatta and Linus are squashed in between two bikes, a…